Part Quatro

The more I get into this thing the more I find that needs to be done. Nothing to squelch my interest, just a few more things to add to the list. The Bug clanks as I go over bumps whch led me to the front and rear suspension. I installed new front wheel bearings and seals and found that I needed new ball joints. Not a big deal. I found an outlet for rebuilt front torsion arms with new German ball joints installed for $19 bucks each. It would cost me that much to purchase and have the joints installed in the old arms anyway. I'll put in new front torsion arm bushings at the same time.

Speaking of torsion bars, I discovered that the rear torsion bar bushings were shot. The bars were resting on the top of the bushing retainer. I got a new set of rubber bushings and new chrome caps. However you have to practically dismantle the spring pack to replace the bushings since the cap hangs up on the body, and you can't remove it or the bushing. This is something I really don't want to tackle right now. I'll probably take it to a suspension shop and let the pros do this part. So in the meantime I just rotated the bushings so the meaty part was taking the load and did away with the rear clanks.

 

*UPDATE* I got some advice from a VW mechanic*. He told me to remove 4 of the fender bolts and the running board bolt on the fenders and pull the bottom of the fender away. Then with a little bit of prying the torsion bar to the rear, the bushing cap will slide right off. Guess what....HE WAS RIGHT! I took his direction and the old one came off, and the new one went on with a snap. Since I had it off I installed new EMPIŠ Chrome caps, along with new rubber bushings. TIP - Longer cap bolts will make installation a snap. Line the cap holes up with the holes on the spring pack and draw the cap down evenly till tight. Then replace the the longer bolts with the stock bolts one at a time. This way saves a lot of hassles. I had to leave one of the longer bolts in, as seen in the lower left of this photo. Seems this side was missing a bolt.
*Thanks to John at
Aircooled.net.

 

I've also started to pluck away at the body work. Not a lot of major work is needed here. Just some surface rust and minor chips in the paint. I plan to just replace the two front fenders and left rear, since it will be cheaper and easier to replace them rather than do all the work that's needed on them to get them ready for painting.

 


Compare this to the engine photo on page 2.
Big difference, huh?
I steamed the engine and found out that the underside of the engine lid was actually blue, beneath 32 years of oil grime and grease. The trunk was a mess, so I scrubbed it out real good and sprayed in some undercoating as a base coat and protector, and to deaden some of the noise. I got in the new glove box and left side rear view mirror. They've both been installed. The new fiberboard trunk liner and electrical cover have been ordered and a carpet kit will finish of this area. The only thing I need now is to replace the heater vent hoses to the defroster and at least one part of the car will be completed.

 

I was tired of looking at the flaking and rust on the wheels, so I scoured these down and primed and painted them to match (as close as I could find) the car's color. I included the spare to spruce up the trunk's looks. I'll have them painted again when I have the car painted to obtain an exact match. I have to put in a plug to John at Parker Auto Parts for getting an exact paint formula for the original color (VW Diamond Blue #L50B). The whole crew down at Parker Auto and Marine have been superb in getting me the stuff I need to get this done.

 

This has nothing to do with Volkswagens. Just something to break the monotony. Kathy and I were coming back from Oregon and decided to take the Extraterrestrial Highway (Nevada 395) past Area 51/Groom Lake. We stopped at this diner in Rachel, NV for breakfast. This place is featured in all the documentaries on UFOs and Area 51, and they're making a mint in UFO and associated paraphernalia.

 

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